Paving Stone F.A.Q.
What are Oregon Block Interlocking Concrete Paving Stones?
Oregon Block pavers are individual precast concrete units.
They are manufactured in our technologically advanced
facilities in Central Oregon. Our specialized manufacturing
process provides an exacting quality-controlled environment
that produces pavers of higher strength and durability than
normal concrete. Per industry specifications, pavers must
meet a minimum average compressive strength of 8,000 psi.
Poured-in-place concrete has a psi of between 1,500 and
2,500. That means a Oregon Block paver is more than three
times stronger than a poured concrete driveway or patio.
Where do I buy Oregon Block paving stones?
Our paving stones can be purchased from our dealers. We service Oregon and SW Washington. From the Portland Metro, Vancouver, Medford and Eastern Oregon we have you covered. Check out our where to buy
What type of sand do I need to use under pavers?
Use a course, hard, angular washed sand conforming to
ASTM C-33 (washed concrete sand). This type of sand
will not deteriorate over time and will drain water well.
DO NOT use stone dusts, limestone screenings, loam,
rounded/fine sands, or decomposed granite.
ASTM C-33 (washed concrete sand). This type of sand
will not deteriorate over time and will drain water well.
DO NOT use stone dusts, limestone screenings, loam,
rounded/fine sands, or decomposed granite.
Would it be better to mortar the pavers into place?
No. Setting the pavers in wet mortar or concrete eliminates
the flexibility and superiority of sand-set installation and
will prevent interlock
the flexibility and superiority of sand-set installation and
will prevent interlock
How do I cut pavers?
The two basic tools for cutting pavers are a diamond saw blade
or a mechanical paver splitter. Because of their high strength,
pavers are difficult to cut. A paver splitter will make a nice cut
(with a little practice) but cannot make smaller precision cuts.
For more precision cuts and difficult pieces around downspouts,
drains, utility boxes, etc., a brick saw with a wet diamond blade
is recommended.
or a mechanical paver splitter. Because of their high strength,
pavers are difficult to cut. A paver splitter will make a nice cut
(with a little practice) but cannot make smaller precision cuts.
For more precision cuts and difficult pieces around downspouts,
drains, utility boxes, etc., a brick saw with a wet diamond blade
is recommended.
Why are some of my pavers scuffed?
Pavers become scratched and scuffed, or “bruised”, in many
ways before and during installation. These marks are normal
and will disappear over time. Common causes are abrasion
during transportation, handling scratches during placement,
and scuffing during and the vibration compaction process.
The vibration compaction process is likely the most stress
the pavers will ever see.
ways before and during installation. These marks are normal
and will disappear over time. Common causes are abrasion
during transportation, handling scratches during placement,
and scuffing during and the vibration compaction process.
The vibration compaction process is likely the most stress
the pavers will ever see.
Do I need to seal Oregon Block pavers?
Sealing is optional, but sealing the pavers does have
some advantages. Sealing your pavers can:
• Make cleanup of oil, food, or vegetation stains easier.
• Help stabilize the joint sand and prevent it from being
washed out by rain or heavy cleaning.
• Help prevent efflorescence from occurring or recurring.
• Help prevent vegetation growth.
• Intensify color characteristics.
You can seal your pavers immediately after completion of
installation or at any time in the future, provided the pavers
are clean and the weather is dry. Although pavers may appear
dry on the surface, it is very important to wait the prescribed
drying time before the application of the sealer.
some advantages. Sealing your pavers can:
• Make cleanup of oil, food, or vegetation stains easier.
• Help stabilize the joint sand and prevent it from being
washed out by rain or heavy cleaning.
• Help prevent efflorescence from occurring or recurring.
• Help prevent vegetation growth.
• Intensify color characteristics.
You can seal your pavers immediately after completion of
installation or at any time in the future, provided the pavers
are clean and the weather is dry. Although pavers may appear
dry on the surface, it is very important to wait the prescribed
drying time before the application of the sealer.
Can I lay pavers over my existing asphalt or concrete?
Yes, you can, but only under certain conditions. First, the existing
pavement must be in good condition. If the existing pavement is
in poor condition (major cracks, heaving, settling, potholes, etc.),
it is wiser to start over and build the base system up properly.
It is also important to check whether there is enough threshold
clearance to accept a 2 3/8” thick paver plus the 1” sand
bedding course.
Another consideration when installing over an existing surface
is whether the pavers can be successfully joined to meet other
existing pavements such as garage surfaces and sidewalks.
If you find that your existing pavement meets these conditions,
follow the normal installation methods with a few additions:
• Add a woven geotextile fabric over the existing pavement
and under the sand bedding course. This will protect the
sand from migrating into existing or future cracks and
failures of the previous pavement.
• Use an adequate edge restraint to hold the pavers and
sand bedding course in place (this may require additional
construction outside the area of existing pavement).
• Remove enough of the existing pavement to allow the pavers
to gradually taper down to adjoining surfaces. Also excavate
enough material to allow proper thickness and compaction
of base material to support anticipated traffic.
• Ensure that the bedding sand layer has proper drainage.
pavement must be in good condition. If the existing pavement is
in poor condition (major cracks, heaving, settling, potholes, etc.),
it is wiser to start over and build the base system up properly.
It is also important to check whether there is enough threshold
clearance to accept a 2 3/8” thick paver plus the 1” sand
bedding course.
Another consideration when installing over an existing surface
is whether the pavers can be successfully joined to meet other
existing pavements such as garage surfaces and sidewalks.
If you find that your existing pavement meets these conditions,
follow the normal installation methods with a few additions:
• Add a woven geotextile fabric over the existing pavement
and under the sand bedding course. This will protect the
sand from migrating into existing or future cracks and
failures of the previous pavement.
• Use an adequate edge restraint to hold the pavers and
sand bedding course in place (this may require additional
construction outside the area of existing pavement).
• Remove enough of the existing pavement to allow the pavers
to gradually taper down to adjoining surfaces. Also excavate
enough material to allow proper thickness and compaction
of base material to support anticipated traffic.
• Ensure that the bedding sand layer has proper drainage.
Will weeds or grass grow in the joints between pavers?
If the pavers were installed properly using the recommended
materials and installation methods, you have created a sterile
environment that will not allow weeds to grow through the
pavers or their joints. Sometimes seeds may land on top of the
joints and start growing in any organic material that has built
up there. If this happens, you can normally pull these weeds out
very easily or remove them with a topical weed killer spray
materials and installation methods, you have created a sterile
environment that will not allow weeds to grow through the
pavers or their joints. Sometimes seeds may land on top of the
joints and start growing in any organic material that has built
up there. If this happens, you can normally pull these weeds out
very easily or remove them with a topical weed killer spray
What is that white stuff on my pavers?
Occasionally some pavers may develop a whitish residue
called efflorescence. Efflorescence is a natural by-product
of the cement hydration process and can be found in any
concrete or mortar product. Calcium oxide inside the paver
reacts with water in the capillaries and forms calcium
hydroxide. This seeps to the surface and reacts with the
carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate, a
whitish residue. When moisture on the surface evaporates,
the white efflorescence becomes visible. If efflorescence is
present, it will wear off over the course of time due to traffic
and the elements. To speed up the removal of efflorescence,
we recommend a paver cleaner found at your local landscape or
hardware store. Always do a test spot with cleaners to make
sure it doesn’t effect paver coloring. Any efflorescence should
be removed prior to sealing.
called efflorescence. Efflorescence is a natural by-product
of the cement hydration process and can be found in any
concrete or mortar product. Calcium oxide inside the paver
reacts with water in the capillaries and forms calcium
hydroxide. This seeps to the surface and reacts with the
carbon dioxide in the air to form calcium carbonate, a
whitish residue. When moisture on the surface evaporates,
the white efflorescence becomes visible. If efflorescence is
present, it will wear off over the course of time due to traffic
and the elements. To speed up the removal of efflorescence,
we recommend a paver cleaner found at your local landscape or
hardware store. Always do a test spot with cleaners to make
sure it doesn’t effect paver coloring. Any efflorescence should
be removed prior to sealing.